Our Little Patch of Hell
The area known as Hells Canyon between the border of Oregon and Idaho is aptly named. Without the lifeline of water running from the Snake River and filling large man-made reservoirs between man-made dams, this place would be a good place to go if you wanted to test your personal stamina in harsh conditions. Which seems perfect for an extended family camp trip. My Dad, a true outdoorsman for life, doesn't live far from the area on the Idaho side, and for years he has made camp there just north of the Oxbow Dam on a stretch of land called Big Bar.
The Best Produce for Miles
What was once a thriving fruit orchard (circa 1910), to which people would travel from miles around during the summer months, is now a bit of an recreational oasis in the canyon. Unlike a few campsites that you pass on the road, there is no current irrigation in Big Bar. Which means a lack of the color green to help convince your bodys thermometer that you arent in something akin to a Dutch painters (circa 1650) interpretation of Hell. And unlike the complex imagery of Hieronymus Bosch, Big Bar is a simple affair of a campground, boasting only vault toilets and few other amenities.
For what it lacks in lushness and potable water, Big Bar makes up for in a still-thriving fruit crop of plum, apricot, apples and wild blackberry and wildlife sightings. When in season, it can feel downright paradisiacal with all the fruit hanging around. Its easy to get excited about a camp breakfast when it includes fresh picked fruit drizzled with a quickly made fruit syrup.
Its not uncommon for people to come totally prepared to preserve fruits while in camp. One year we met a father and son team who came down with a ladder, a dehydrator and a complete canning setup. They didnt even bother with a tent, but reserved any available room in their vehicle for the jars and bags of fruit they would bring home.
They chose wisely, since sleeping out under the stars in Hellss Canyon pays big dividends in stargazing and overall personal comfort. The temperature doesn't really dip below 55 degrees on a warm, summer night, and the lack of electricity leaves a light pollution-free sky viewing experience.
Although the fruit, when ripe, does tend to bring a sizable population of small brown bears to Big Bar, this is merely a side note and wont require any Alaskan reality show skills. They are only interested in the fruit. Our timing for harvest was a bit early, and our group had to make do with a handful of barely ripe apricots. But that doesn't mean we went without.
Fish Fry Here Too
The waters of the reservoir are teeming with fish that jump and pretty much skip about, a constant background noise that delights the young and old alike. My family enjoys fishing for bass and some trout while down there. A fish fry can pretty much be a nightly thing. Many folks bring boats to access the water's various areas, allowing them to take in more of the canyon and fulfill a need for speed via watercraft sports.
The Water Is Fine (Most of the Time)
On a drought year you can be disappointed by the water's plague of blue-green algae, which is considered unsafe to swim in. A real bummer when you're sitting in the Hells Canyon summer heat. This year, with water aplenty, we happily swam, floated and cliff jumped into the waters. Its a good idea to check the water quality annually before you make the drive.
One thing about being in that hot, dry environment is that you dont really crave a campfire. In fact, some days its about the last thing you want to get going. Which makes it hard to cook over fire or enjoy a toasty s'mores dessert.
This year, I came prepared with our Dutch oven and a plan for making a sweet, layered treat that didnt require a campfire. With a little home prep, it was surprisingly easy to whip up a batch of a tula favorite: Chocolita Bars. Although, I omitted the cinnamon and cayenne that these bars always had sprinkled over the top in the bakery. We used to call it the tula cinnamon challenge. When I thought of how dry and parched everyone already is in that canyon, it just seemed like unnecessary torture. Kinda like a Dutch painting circa 1650.
Chocolita Bars
20 minutes prep | 20 minutes baking time |
Serves 12-16
At Home:
Measure the oats, GF flour, baking soda, cinnamon, brown sugar, and sea salt into a resealable bag. Shake to combine. Label with tape and marker.
Roughly chop the pecans and add to another resealable bag. Add the chocolate chips. Label with tape and marker.
Pack enough butter to use in the recipe, in addition to other camp cooking needs. Pack caramel in the cooler (if you have a squeeze bottle, transfer to that for easier pouring). Pack parchment paper.
In Camp:
Remove caramel from cooler. Line your Dutch oven with a good-sized piece of parchment paper. Ready 18 pieces of charcoal in a chimney. While they heat, prepare the bars.
Place butter in a small pan and melt on cook top. Remove from heat and set aside.
Add dry ingredients to a mixing bowl. Create a well in the center and pour the melted butter into the center. Use a spatula or a large spoon to mix well. Chop at it if you need. Form a crumb.
Take about two handfuls or about a 1 cup measure of this crumb and set it aside the pan used for melting butter.
Place the remaining crumb mixture into the bottom of your Dutch oven, on top of the parchment. Press down firmly and as evenly as possible with your hands. Sprinkle the chopped nuts and chocolate chip mixture evenly on top. Drizzle the caramel on top. Use your hands to clump bits of the reserved crumb and drop on top of the caramel. Place lid on Dutch oven.
Using tongs and in a fireproof, level area, place 10 coals in a circle on the ground. Place Dutch oven on top of coals. Now add the remaining coals in an even distribution on top of the lid. Let bake for 15-20 minutes or until the top is bubbly.
Use a lid lifter to gently remove lid. Place lid and coals inside the fire ring for safety. Move Dutch oven away from the bottom coals. Hang in a secure way to a tree or something to cool. Let cool for several hours. Slice into squares and enjoy. Keeps well for several days. You can sprinkle cinnamon and a dash of cayenne on top if desired.
Mieke Johnson is a native child of the Pacific Northwest. With her husband, Caleb, she founded Tula Gluten Free Bakery in Portland, Oregon in 2011, and then shut it down in 2017 to focus on raising their daughter, June. Her blog,itsybitsybeautiful.comshares food inspirations, life tales, camping hacks, travel adventures and community mindfulness.
